Tag: chain link fence installation how to

Before you even think about grabbing a shovel, know this: a successful fence project is 90% planning and 10% sweat. Rushing into digging post holes without a clear strategy is the single biggest mistake I see DIYers make. It's a surefire way to end up with a crooked fence, wasted materials, and a whole lot of frustration. Taking the time to properly map everything out is the most crucial phase. It sets the stage for an installation that goes smoothly and results in a fence that'll stand strong for years. Planning Your Project Before Breaking Ground This initial phase isn't just about sketching lines on paper. It's about doing your due diligence—covering the crucial safety checks and legal requirements that protect you, your property, and your wallet. Navigating Codes and Calling for Safety Your first two calls, before you buy a single post cap, should be to your local municipality and your utility locating service. It's amazing how many people skip this. Many towns, and especially Homeowners' Associations (HOAs), have surprisingly strict rules about fence height, style, and setbacks from property lines. A quick phone call can save you from a costly tear-down order down the road. Just as critical is calling your local "Call Before You Dig" service (often 811). This is a free service where professionals come out and mark the location of all your underground utility lines—gas, water, electrical, you name it. Hitting one of those isn't just dangerous; it can lead to massive fines and repair bills. Pro Tip: Never, ever assume you know where underground lines are, even if you've lived there for decades. Utility locations can shift, and old records aren't always perfect. The call is free and, in most places, legally required for a very good reason. Measuring and Creating Your Materials List Once you’ve got the green light from the authorities, you can get down to the hands-on planning. Grab some wooden stakes, a string line, and a good tape measure. Start by accurately mapping out the perimeter where your fence will stand. The string line is your best friend here—it gives you a perfect visual of your fence line and ensures everything is straight. With your total linear footage figured out, it's time to build a detailed materials list. Precision is key. A well-thought-out list prevents those annoying mid-project trips to the hardware store and keeps you from overspending. At Xtreme Edeals, we stock all the components you need for a professional-grade installation. Here’s what your essential checklist should look like: Terminal Posts: These are the beefier posts that act as the backbone of your fence. They go at every corner, end, and gate. Line Posts: These are the intermediate posts that provide support along the straight sections. You'll typically space them 8 to 10 feet apart. Top Rail: This is the horizontal pipe running along the top. It provides crucial rigidity and stops the fence from sagging over time. Chain Link Fabric: Measure your total length and then add about 5% extra just to be safe. Trust me on this one. Fittings and Hardware: This is where quality really counts. Investing in durable, weather-resistant post caps and strong galvanized tie wires from XTREME EDEALS will prevent premature rust and add years to your fence's life. Don't forget tension bands, brace bands, and all the necessary carriage bolts. Getting this stage right is the secret to a stress-free project. For a more detailed walkthrough, you might also find a dedicated step-by-step chain link fence installation guide helpful. When you take these prep steps seriously, you ensure your project is built on a rock-solid foundation. Setting a Rock-Solid Foundation for Your Fence Let's be blunt: if your fence posts wobble, the whole project is a wash. It really is that simple. The strength, longevity, and professional look of your new fence all come down to this one crucial stage. Getting your posts perfectly plumb, spaced correctly, and locked into solid concrete is what separates a fence that stands for decades from one that starts leaning after the first big storm. This is where your careful planning becomes a tangible, sturdy framework. Think of your fence posts as the skeleton of the project. The most important bones are the terminal posts—these are the beefier, larger-diameter posts that do the heavy lifting. You'll find them at every corner, at the ends of a fence run, and on either side of a gate. The slightly smaller line posts run along the straight sections, providing the necessary support in between. We carry a full range of post sizes and gauges at Xtreme Edeals to suit any project. Digging and Prepping the Post Holes Your first real hands-on task is digging the holes, and getting this right now saves you a world of hurt later. For those heavy-duty terminal posts, you'll want a hole about 10-12 inches in diameter. Line post holes can be a little smaller, closer to 8-10 inches across. The depth is absolutely critical and depends on your local frost line. A solid rule of thumb is to dig the hole to a depth of one-third the height of the fence, plus an extra six inches for a gravel base. So for a standard 4-foot fence, you’re looking at a 22-inch deep hole (16" + 6"). Key Insight: Always dig below your local frost line. If you don't, the winter freeze-thaw cycle can cause "frost heave," which will literally push your posts right out of the ground over time. Trust me, you don't want to fix that mess. You can tackle this with a manual post-hole digger, but if you've got a lot of holes to dig or your soil is full of rocks, renting a gas-powered auger for the day is a smart move. Your back will thank you. The Art of Mixing and Setting in Concrete With the holes dug, pour about six inches of gravel into the bottom of each one. This is a step many amateurs skip, but it’s vital for drainage. It keeps water from pooling around the base of the post, which prevents rust and keeps the concrete from cracking down the road. Now, for the concrete. No need for a fancy mix here; a standard bag mix from the hardware store is perfect. You're aiming for a consistency like thick, heavy oatmeal—not a soupy, watery mix, which will result in weak footings that take forever to cure. Start by setting a terminal post in the centre of its hole. Begin shovelling the concrete in, tamping it down every few inches to get rid of any air pockets. Fill the hole until the concrete is about two inches from the top, then shape the surface so it slopes away from the post. This little "crown" is a pro touch that helps shed water away from the steel. Achieving Perfect Plumb and Height As you fill the hole with concrete, this is your chance to get the post perfectly vertical, or plumb. Use a magnetic level strapped right to the post. Nudge it and adjust until the bubble is dead centre on both the north-south and east-west axes. Once your terminal posts are set and plumb, run a mason's line tautly between them. This string is now your perfect guide for setting the height and alignment of all the line posts. It's the secret to a dead-straight fence line with a crisp, even top edge. Let the concrete cure for at least 24-48 hours before you even think about moving on. Seriously. Trying to install the top rail or stretch the mesh too soon will pull your posts out of plumb, and you'll be starting over. Understanding the basics of proper concrete footings is the key to long-term stability. For a deeper dive into the nuances of this critical stage, our in-depth article on how to install a fence post is a great resource. It covers more techniques to ensure your fence's foundation is absolutely bulletproof. Remember, the strength of the entire fence is decided right here, right now. Putting the Skeleton Together: Fittings and Top Rails Now that your posts are rock-solid in their concrete footings, it's time to transform that collection of poles into a proper fence framework. This is where we connect the dots, building the strong, straight skeleton that will eventually support the chain link mesh. It’s a pretty straightforward assembly process, but getting the steps in the right order is crucial for a headache-free installation. First things first, before you even think about the top rail, you need to dress your terminal posts—that's your corner, end, and gate posts. This is a step you absolutely cannot do later, so don't get ahead of yourself. Grab your tension bands and slide them over each terminal post. These small but essential fittings are what will hold the tension bar when you stretch the mesh at the very end. So, how many do you need? A good rule of thumb I've always used is one less than the height of your fence in feet. It works out perfectly every time. For a 4-foot fence, you'll use 3 tension bands. For a 5-foot fence, you'll use 4 tension bands. For a 6-foot fence, you'll use 5 tension bands. Make sure the flat side of each band is facing out, towards what will be the exterior of your fence. Don't go cranking down on the bolts just yet; leave them loose enough that you can easily slide them up and down the post for adjustments later. Cap a Post, Save a Fence With the tension bands on, slide one brace band onto each terminal post. You'll want to position this one near the top. Think of it as a collar that will grab and hold the end of the top rail. Just like the tension bands, keep it loose for now. Next up is a small step that makes a huge difference in the longevity of your fence. Expert Insight: Never, ever leave the top of a hollow fence post open to the weather. I've seen it countless times—rain and snow get in, pool at the bottom, and the post rusts from the inside out. It's the most common reason I see for premature fence failure, and it's completely avoidable. To stop this from happening, pop a durable post cap on top of every single post. Installing quality post caps from XTREME EDEALS is a cheap and easy bit of insurance that seals out moisture and can add years to the life of your fence. Your line posts get loop caps (the ones with the hole for the rail to pass through), while terminal posts get a solid dome or acorn cap for a clean, finished look. Installing a Seamless Top Rail The top rail is the long horizontal pipe that gives the whole structure its rigidity. It's what keeps the fence line from sagging and looking sloppy over time. Start at one end—a terminal post—and begin feeding the first length of rail through the loop caps on your line posts. When one pipe ends, you'll connect the next. Most top rails are designed with a swaged (tapered) end that slides right into the full-sized end of the next section, creating a strong, continuous line. If a section of rail is too long, a simple pipe cutter or a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade will give you a clean cut. To lock the rail into your terminal posts, slide the end into a rail end cup. This little fitting then bolts directly to the brace band you installed earlier. Tighten it down with a carriage bolt, and you've got a solid connection that ties the entire framework together. Now, take a step back and look down the line of your new top rail—it should be perfectly straight and level. If you're sourcing hardware for this step, check out our full range of durable fasteners and fittings; they're built to handle Canadian weather and stand the test of time. With the top rail securely in place, your fence's skeleton is officially complete. It should now be a sturdy, interconnected grid, perfectly aligned and ready for the most satisfying part of the job: hanging and stretching the mesh. Stretching the Mesh for a Professional Finish Alright, this is the moment of truth. How you handle this next step will make the difference between a fence that looks saggy and homemade, and one that's drum-tight and professional. A loose, wavy mesh is the number one giveaway of a rookie installation, but getting it taut isn't about brute strength. It’s all about applying controlled, even tension. Get this right, and your fence will not only look fantastic but will be significantly stronger for years to come. Hanging the Mesh and Prepping for Tension First things first, let's get the mesh hung. Start at one of your terminal posts—a corner, end, or gate post. Unroll the roll of chain link along the outside of your fence line. You want the side of the fence the public sees to be the smooth side. As you unroll it, check the top and bottom edges. One edge has the wire ends bent over into "knuckles," and the other has them twisted into "barbs." For safety, always install it knuckles up, barbs down. This keeps the sharper barb end near the ground, where it’s out of the way. Lean the fabric against the posts and top rail. Go back to your starting terminal post and grab a tension bar. Weave it straight down through the very first row of diamonds in the mesh. This bar is critical; it acts like a backbone, making sure the pulling force is spread evenly from the top of the fence to the bottom. Now, attach that tension bar to the tension bands you already put on the post. You’ll use carriage bolts to connect them, and this is no place to skimp. Using quality, weather-resistant hardware from XTREME EDEALS, like our galvanized tension bands and bolts, ensures these critical connection points won't fail under pressure. For now, just loosely attach the mesh to the top rail every five or six feet with a few fence ties. This just holds it up so you can work. This diagram shows how the basic framework you've built—the bands, caps, and top rail—all come together to create the solid structure you need before you can start pulling the mesh tight. Each part literally supports the next, leading to a frame that’s ready for the most important step: tensioning. Using a Fence Puller for a Drum-Tight Finish With one end of the mesh solidly attached, walk the roll down to the opposite terminal post, pulling out most of the slack by hand as you go. Stop about three feet short of that final post. Here, you'll weave in your second tension bar. This is where your fence puller (or come-along) comes into play. Hook one end of the puller to the terminal post and the other end to the tension bar you just inserted into the mesh. Now, start cranking. Slowly. You’re not trying to rip it; you're just steadily taking up the slack. You’ll see the mesh begin to tighten against the posts and top rail. Go slow and watch the entire fence line. You're aiming for taut, not guitar-string tight. Over-tightening can actually bend your terminal posts over time or distort the diamond pattern of the mesh. The Pinch Test: A Simple Check for Perfect TensionSo, how do you know when it's just right? Here's an old pro's trick. Go to the middle of your fence run and try to squeeze two parallel wires of a single diamond together with your fingers. If you can easily pinch them together more than a quarter-inch, it's still too loose. If you can't move them at all, you've gone too far. You want just a tiny bit of give. Once you hit that sweet spot, you need to cut the mesh to fit. The fence puller will have stretched the fabric past the terminal post. Mark the spot on the mesh that lines up with the post. Use a pair of pliers to open the knuckle at the top and bottom of a single wire strand, then simply "un-spiral" it all the way down. The excess mesh will fall right off. With the excess removed, slide your final tension bar into the end of the mesh and bolt it securely to the tension bands on the post. You can now release the fence puller. The mesh should stay perfectly tight. Doing this yourself saves a ton of cash. In a place like Los Angeles, California, a pro install can average $1,651, but DIYers can often slice that cost by up to 50%. By getting your own quality parts from XTREME EDEALS INC. like our posts, mesh, and fasteners, you get that pro-level finish without paying for labour, which can be $25-$50 per hour. And since many people in California are adding privacy slats, bundling those with your initial order can save even more. Securing the Fabric and Finalizing the Stretch The hard part is over. With the mesh stretched tight between your terminal posts, all that's left is to tie it off. Go along the top rail and secure the mesh with fence ties every 24 inches or so. Then, do the same for every line post, placing a tie every 12-18 inches down the post. This keeps everything solid and stops the fence from rattling in the wind. This is also the perfect time to add privacy slats if you're planning on it. With the mesh fully tensioned, the slats will slide in easily and fit perfectly. If you want to know more about that popular upgrade, you can learn more about adding slats to a chain link fence in our detailed guide. Adding the Final Touches and Hanging Your Gate With your chain link mesh stretched drum-tight, the heavy lifting is officially behind you. Now, it's all about those finishing details that turn a functional barrier into a polished, secure fence. This is where you lock in all your hard work by securing the fabric for good and hanging your gate so it operates smoothly for years to come. Even though the tension bar is holding the mesh tight, the fence ties are what really finish the job. They keep the fabric from rattling in the wind and stop any gaps from forming over time. Securing the Mesh to the Framework Kick things off with the top rail. Using your aluminum fence ties, you'll want to attach the mesh every 24 inches or so along the entire length. The technique is simple but effective: loop a tie around the rail, thread it through a diamond in the mesh, and then twist the ends together nice and snug with your pliers. A tight, clean twist not only looks more professional but also prevents it from snagging on clothes later. Next up are the line posts. You'll repeat the process here, but space the ties a bit closer together—every 12 to 18 inches is a good rule of thumb. This extra support keeps the mesh pulled flush against the posts, adding a surprising amount of rigidity and security to the whole structure. It’s this step that gives the fence that solid, rattle-free feel you want. Hanging Your Gate for a Perfect Swing There's nothing more frustrating than a poorly hung gate. It sags, it scrapes the ground, it never quite latches right. But getting it perfect is pretty straightforward when you've got the right hardware and a little bit of patience. The secret to a gate that lasts is using hardware that can handle the daily stress of opening and closing. This is one of those times where investing in quality components, like the heavy-duty gate hinges and latches from XTREME EDEALS, really pays dividends. Good hinges and latches are built to resist sagging and wear, which means your gate will swing true for years. Here’s how to get that perfect installation: Mount the Hinges: Start by attaching the female hinges to your gate post, but only tighten the bolts part-way for now. This gives you some wiggle room for adjustments. Then, go ahead and attach the male hinges to the gate frame itself. Hang the Gate: Lift the gate and slide the male hinges down into the female hinges. A few blocks of wood are your best friend here—use them to prop the gate up to the right height. You're aiming for about two inches of clearance from the ground. Check for Swing and Plumb: With the gate propped up, grab your level and make sure the gate is perfectly plumb (straight up and down). Give it a few test swings to ensure it moves freely without catching or binding. You can adjust the hinges up or down the post until the alignment is spot on. Install the Latch: The last piece of the puzzle is the gate latch. A comfortable height is usually somewhere between 36 and 48 inches off the ground. Make sure the latch parts align perfectly and operate smoothly before you go back and tighten down all the bolts on both the hinges and the latch. Pro Tip: When you're tightening the hinge bolts, don't just crank one down and then the other. Tighten them gradually, alternating between the top and bottom hinges. This little trick prevents you from accidentally pulling the gate out of alignment as you secure it. With your gate swinging like a dream and latching securely, your project is officially complete. Do one final walk along the entire fence line, double-checking for any loose ties or bolts. Making these small adjustments now ensures every part is secure and your fence is finished to a truly professional standard. Tackling Common Chain Link Fence Problems Even with the best-laid plans, you can run into a few head-scratchers during a fence install. From tricky terrain to a measurement that's just a hair off, every project has its moments. Here’s how to handle some of the most common issues that pop up. How Do I Handle a Sloped Yard? Putting a chain link fence on a hill or uneven ground is a classic DIY challenge, but it's totally doable. The secret is to let the fence follow the lay of the land. This is often called "racking" the fence. Instead of fighting gravity to keep the top rail perfectly level, you install it parallel to the ground's slope. Posts Must Be Plumb: This is non-negotiable. No matter what the ground is doing, every single post needs to be perfectly vertical. Your level is your best friend here. Vary Your Post Heights: To follow the slope, your posts will naturally sit at different heights. It's a good idea to leave them a little long at first and trim them to a uniform height above the fabric later on. Get the Right Fittings: Standard fittings are rigid. For a sloped run, you'll need adjustable fittings (often called swivel fittings) that let the top rail connect to the posts at an angle. Xtreme Edeals carries a variety of fittings to handle any terrain. The chain link mesh itself is incredibly forgiving. Its diamond pattern is designed to flex, so it will conform to the angle of the slope without bunching up, giving you a professional-looking fence that hugs the landscape. What's the Best Way to Connect a Fence to My House? Lots of fence lines need to terminate against a house, a garage, or a sturdy shed. The cleanest and strongest way to do this is to treat that wall as if it were your final terminal post. You can mount a tension bar directly onto the wall using special wall-mount brackets. If you're going into brick or concrete, a few heavy-duty masonry anchors will do the trick. This lets you stretch the fabric right up to the building and get it drum-tight, creating a secure end point without having to dig a post hole right next to your foundation. A Word of Caution: Make sure you're anchoring into something solid. For a wood-sided building, that means hitting a wall stud. For masonry, it means getting a solid bite in the brick or block, not just the mortar. The tension on a fence is significant, and you need a rock-solid connection. I Messed Up a Measurement. Can I Fix It? It happens to everyone. You get to the end of a line and realize a post is a few inches off, or you've cut a piece of top rail just a little too short. Don't sweat it—there’s usually a simple fix. If a top rail is too short, you can easily join another piece using a top rail sleeve. It’s a small coupling that slides over both ends, creating a strong, nearly invisible connection to bridge the gap. And what if a line post is slightly out of place? As long as it's plumb, it's often much easier to work with it than to break up concrete and reset it. The tensioning process for the chain link mesh has a bit of give. You can usually pull the fabric tight and accommodate small spacing mistakes without anyone ever noticing. Remember, the goal is a strong, secure fence—minor adjustments are just part of the DIY game. For any project, having hardware you can count on makes all the difference. From durable post caps that keep water out to heavy-duty gate hinges and latches, XTREME EDEALS INC. has the quality components you need to build a fence that will stand strong for years. Check out our complete lineup of fencing accessories to get your project started right.